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Vivid colours and delicious smells can be found in every corner, providing food lovers from around the world with an exciting playground of gastronomic discovery. It is clear that the Basque country exerts an almost magical attraction for foodies, top chefs, gourmands and restaurant critics.
But what is the secret of this small and unique region? Where does this deep-seated passion for food come from? As we delve deeper into the heritage of the Basque country, it becomes immediately evident that the media is not just jumping on the bandwagon, but that the cuisine and its skillful use of local produce count among the oldest traditions of the Basques. Basque culture is one of the oldest, if not the oldest European cultural tradition, passed down from generation to generation by the people who settled from the Bay of Biscay down to the fertile lowlands of the Ebro.
And in this unique setting, between the soaring mountains, the rolling foothills of the North Sea, and the fertile river plains of northern Spain lies our first insight into the culinary secrets of the Basque country: its incredible natural abundance. It boasts of superb wine terroirs, fish, seafood, meat, fruits and vegetables. Where nature offers such richness, it is no wonder that the inhabitants have learnt how to make the most of it.
Many of his colleagues share his dedication to local specialities. The Basque Culinary Centre is a private university that has dedicated itself to the development and advancement of haute cuisine.
The vibrant street-food culture is fostered by its connection to culinary institutions and encourages new generations of adventurous, ambitious cooking enthusiasts to realise their full potential. Unsurprisingly, cooking also commands a high degree of respect outside of the professional sphere. Tourists can sign up for any number of private cooking courses and dinners, which offer the perfect opportunity for locals to present an assortment of regional specialities.
Small, intimate groups meet to sing, talk and above all cook. Some the oldest active txokos have existed for centuries, and to this day they continue to promote community, tradition and the flourishing of Basque cuisine.
Well, very left field more under water really. Owning a small vineyard growing Chardonnay in clay and flint soil he decided that traditional viniculture needed a change of approach. So while the wine maturing process is still carried out in stainless steel containers a small amount is matured 15m under the sea at Saint Jean de Luz in plastic tanks that expand and contract.
Emanuel has more plans for aqua maturity and has patented the process. He currently makes 50, bottles a year but this is set to rise. Renown for its seafood I started with squid, chillies and garlic. Fresh and vibrant and tasting nice and spicy I followed it with a brute of a fish whole with the head on and roast potatoes.
The dessert was a triumph, strawberry gazpacho a simple dish of blitzed fruit, syrup and a bit of mint — truly delicious on a hot day. I spent the afternoon visiting an engaging folly. And boy did he explore, covering a large part of the globe he spoke over 40 languages and spent much of his time writing books on his discoveries in his library and observing the stars from the observatory in his neo gothic pile.
The interior is a jubilant celebration of his travels and eclectic tastes. Now owned by Academy of Science it is a protected building and really worth a visit. Nearby you can visit Hendaye, the town where the treaty was signed on an island to end the war between France and Spain. A quirk of Conference Island is that it flips its nationality, six months of the year it belongs to Spain the rest of the time it is French. The evening brought a Basque fiesta. Suitably attired in a black t-shirt and a red neckerchief these are available everywhere for the sole purpose of being worn for the fiesta I headed into town.
It started slowly but grew and grew. Bands playing live on many street corners, restaurants offering food and drinks with Basque influences and colours dancing in the streets. The bars stayed open all night offering smaller bands and discos. I partied until late and had a wonderful time, the whole town, all ages came out to celebrate and talk to each other and strangers like me.
My last day and I checked out of Hotel Bel-Air in Saint Jean de Luz my comfortable home for the last few days and headed up into the mountains. It was not as drastic as it sounds — I took a train.
A rather special train that has been pulling itself up the m of de la Rhune. This rack and pinion or cog train has a rickety way about it but the scenery on the journey about half an hour is lovely. You get to see wildlife and great views. When you arrive at the summit you are actually in Spain!
Pre euro days this was a great place for the duty free shopper to grab a bargain. The clouds moved around the mountain at times affording us a glimpse of the sea and some blue.
It is very changeable up there and you can stay as long as you like. But I would recommend the train. My final meal in this beautiful part of the world that has yielded not only fabulous food also delightful people was to be at Txopinondo, a cider house like no other.
Brewed on the premises the large vats of cider are there to sample — regularly. Let me explain. You sit down at long benches and order your food. In my case a fantastic slab of beef cooked on an open BBQ. One by one you take your turn as he removes the txotx bung from the barrel and the cider comes out like small waterfall.
There is no stopping it so you have to be quick. You probably get the idea by now. It is possible to drink a vast amount of this cider without realising it. This part of the world that will only ever be defined as Basque by the people who live here is unique, beguiling and frankly almost addictive.
They have thought of everything from superb food and drink, to-die-for scenery, friendly people, their own ball games and above all an identity that sits comfortably with all who claim it. I loved this region and can highly recommend it I feel I only scratched the surface. I am looking forward to my next visit already. Share on Facebook Tweet this post. Neil is a food and travel writer and photographer based in London, UK.
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